петък, 10 септември 2010 г.

La Sportiva Batura Evo

Most of La Sportiva's updated models have the EVO after the name of the older shoe. It is the same with the new La Sportiva Batura Evo, the evolution of the Batura.
The construction of the Batura is not new to the market. It uses a single boot with attatched lightly insulated gaiter and nowadays many brands use similar designs.
















The La Sportiva Batura on the left and Batura Evo on the right.
From the first sight the Nepal constrution of the boots seems to be unchanged. The rubber rand also looks the same, with the yellow ruber connection and the EVO sign.
The first difference comes with the nylon part of the gaiter. On the Batura, the nylon is only little above the ankle and the upper part of the gaiter has Cordura and Scholler stretch materials. This means the construction has three parts, so it needs more seams. In my opinion, the gaiter is a bit tighter, to be used only over underwear or powerstretch tights, with limited possibility to put the lower part of your trousers in it.
The Batura Evo has nylon much higher above the ankle, so the stretch material are only where you tighten the gaiter around the layer, which is closest to it. In picure the gaiter seems to have higher volume, so putting your pants in it may be possible.
The other visible change is the zip. The new zip should provide better waterproofness and reliability than the older one, over longer period of time.

I have never owned the Batura. When I tried it in the shop, it had good volume in the front, but much heel lift and I took the Nepal Evo, one whole size up.
My expectations are the Batura Evo has improvements in the lacing for a better heel lock, providing better front pointing ability for ice climbing, steep ice fields and couloirs.

The images are taken from the US and international web sites of La Sportiva.

четвъртък, 26 август 2010 г.

Muztagh Ata 2010 in pictures

Karakol Lake.

Kongur Tube, 7595m.
 
Muztagh Ata in clouds, 7546m.

Base Camp with good weather.

Base Camp zoomed from the route to Camp 1.

The glacier between the two main routes.

Looking west, with the glacier on the right.

There are many marmots around the base camp.

The most popular route on the other side, seen from Camp 1.

The view west from Camp 1.

Camp 1 with Santos taking pictures and Boris in the tent.

Me cooking.

Asolo Guida and my socks in snow.

Our Camp 1 is at 5200m. After the slope above, there is the new place for Camp 1.

The tents of the Americans at Camp 3, 6800m.

Damien arriving at Camp 3.  Boris went to the summit the same day and together we are going down.

Sunset at Camp 1 and we continue the descent to Base Camp.

The next day many people are going up.

We are visiting the other Base Camp. The most popular way on the left and our on the right side of the glacier. They are technically the same.

Me and Santos on a stone on the way to the other Base Camp.

Almost there.

When we reached the camp, we met Jordi Tosas and his friends.

Loading the bus with our luggage.

Bye Subashi, bye Muztagh Ata!